The sprawling hill temple complex of Tirupati, dedicated to Sri Venkateswara (an incarnation of Vishnu) is virtually an industry unto itself, with allied activities in education, social welfare and healthcare.
Tirupati’s origins are unclear; what we do know is that beginning with the Cholas, every ruling southern dynasty has endowed the temple handsomely with gold and jewellery. In 1517, Vijayanagara ruler Krishnadevaraya donated the gold required to plate the inner shrine’s cupola – a glittering vision that still staggers visitors.
Why does Tirupati attract so much wealth? Because Sri Venkateswara is paying off the interest on his huge loan from Kubera, the divine cashier who funded the Lord’s wedding expenses. Devotees who help the Lord repay His debt are granted all their wishes. On their way downhill, pilgrims pay their respects to His consort Padmavathi (an incarnation of goddess Lakshmi), who has her own shrine.
From the distribution of huge laddoos as prasadam to the spectacle of priests sorting millions of coins and devotees getting their heads shaved, Tirupati has plenty to see – you want at least a day to take in this huge operation.
Hanamkonda or Hanumakonda derives its name from Hanuman. Mythology says that Hanuman, while flying to Lanka with the Sanjeevini Mountain, dropped a few stones along the way – they are the hills where Hanamkonda now stands. In the 12th century, the Kakatiya rulers raised a magnificent, thousand-pillared temple dedicated to Vishnu, Shiva and Surya. Rock sculptures of elephants, elegant pillars and intricately carved screens arise on the slopes of the hillsides. Birdsong and the tinkling of temple bells are balm for the stressed soul. A larger-than-life Nandi, made of black basalt, gleams in solitary splendour, as though sculpted only yesterday.
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